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Guaranteed Rust Free - Shot Blasting
We are the only 2CV specialist to guarantee to remove all rust on 2cv's we rebuild. This is because we are the only 2CV specialist that shot blasting our rebuilds.
For those who do not know about shot blasting ....
Not any old shot blasting company can blast a car, because shot blasting is normally done on very thick steel such as cast iron and RSJs.
So, if you take a car to a shot blaster and they blast it the way they blast metal normally, the car will become distorted because it is made of thin steel. This is why we invested in our own shot blasting equipment; we can do the work ourselves and guarantee the results.
We have a old shipping conainer for blasting; we wear an air-fed protective helmet, holding a large hose that fires very fine glass shot (a bit like sand) at high pressure at the 2CV. This process removes all paint and all rust back to clean metal; if it is very rusty it will remove the rust and leave holes.
Some people say to use paint stripper to remove the paint and use a wire wheel to remove the rust. Shot-blasting is the most effective way to remove rust and it does a far better job than a wire wheel.
The 2CV Shop's Nine Stage Rust Removal Process:
|Stage 1 - Original car||Stage 2 - Initial shot blasting
Stage 3 - Welding
|Stage 4 - Second shot blasting
Stage 5 - Filling, zinc coating, undersealing
|Stage 6 - Etch priming
Stage 7 - High build priming
Stage 8 - Base coating
|Stage 9 - Lacquering|
Let us talk you through the nine stages of getting a 2CV rust free.
The photographs above are of The 2cv Shop's 'cut-away car' which was specially prepared to illustrate each stage in the process.
Initial Shot Blasting
The objective is to remove the rust, so the panels are shot blasted back to bare metal.
In most cases the rust starts from the inside out; you cannot see the rust from the outside. If it is rusty inside, for example in a box section, the rust will have thinned the metal and the blasting will create a hole revealing the existence of the rust on the inside to us.
We cut it out and replace it with new metal.
We do all the welding required: floors, sills, inner and outer toe board, boot floor, inner rear wings, bonnet hinge, etc. And we weld in new metal where there was once rust.
Bare metal goes rusty very quickly. Welding causes blueing in the metal where the heat gets in and thins it slightly. This is often the first place where rust will start; so we shot blast it again to remove the blueing. If the metal is too thin the blast will make pin holes; we repeat this process until we are happy with the result.
Filling, Zinc-Coating, Undersealing
A thin coat of filler is applied to take out small blemishes, not to fill holes or big dents.
A coating of zinc is applied and also applied drawing weldind into all cavities. then all joints are seam sealed.
The bottom of the body shell is under sealed and the inside stone-chipped for harder protection, this includes the underside of the four wings.
The body shell and panels are transferred to the spray shop, two coats of etch primer applied.
High Build Priming
Then three coats of high build primer are applied after this it is baked off in the oven.
We apply a black guide coat so that we can see all the high and low points in the high build primer. This makes it easier to wet flat the panels. Wet flatting gives a smooth base for the three colour coats.
Base Coating or Top coating
On this 2CV we applied three coats of base or top coat. As you can see from the picture, base coat goes on matt. Base coat and lacquer are what are used on modern cars today.
We apply three coats of lacquer. (only on base coat)
We only use a top quality paint that does not fade within a couple of years, unlike cheaper paint.